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14degrees off the beaten track
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第69日目 - パミール高原:タジキスタン国境からカラコル湖(Karakol Lake)まで
September 30th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン


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Distance / 距離: 47.7km
Time / 時間: 3h 38m
Average speed / 平均速度: 13.2km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3214.2km

ありえませんよ、この景色。自転車をちゃんと漕げないくらい周りがすっごいんです。写真を撮っても、その美しさが伝わりません。

The shores of Karakol Lake, Tajikistan / タジキスタンのカラコル湖岸

しかし今日はちょっと疲れ気味です。なぜなら、食べ物の計画に失敗したからです。食事(朝、昼、晩)の分はちゃんとありますが、その間に食べるおやつは足りません。食事と食事の間に何かを食べないとエネルギーがとても持ちません。ムルガブ町(Murghab)まで後2日間かかるでしょう。また食べ物が切れちゃうのか。

One the descent to Karakol Lake, Tajikistan / カラコル湖へ下る途中(タジキスタン)

それに、ちょっと心配なのは水です。湖のそばに野宿していますが、湖は清水ではなくて、ほんの少し塩水のようです。問題にならないでしょうが、大丈夫なのかな・・・

Snow? No, minerals - Karakol Lake, Tajikistan / 雪?いいえ、塩(タジキスタン、カラコル湖)

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第68日目 - パミール高原:サリタシュ町(Sari-Tash)のちょっと先からタジキスタンの国境のちょっと先まで(日本語要約)
September 29th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン


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Distance / 距離: 45km
Time / 時間: 4h 54m
Average speed / 平均速度: 9.4km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3166.5km

日本語要約:キルギスから上がって、本格的にパミール高原にたどり着きました。宇宙にいるような景色に囲まれて、今まで経験したことない静けさ。感動です。

I have ascended and then descended on rough gravel roads into a moon-like landscape - absolutely barren at a present altitude of 4000 metres.

Moonscape on the Pamir Highway, just after border / タジキスタン国境付近

The day began with cold but fair weather, but just as I was about to pack my tent away, wet snow began to fall. I dithered for too long as to whether I should wait for the snow to stop, or just continue packing my things away and get going. In the end I decided to go for it, and by the time I had donned my wet weather gear and packed away a now very wet and slushy tent, the snow had stopped.

Fearing that it might snow again, I kept all my warm clothing on as I started to pedal. Of course in no time I was overheating, so the morning consisted of frustrating stops and starts as I tried to figure out a good balance of layering for warmth while pedalling. The dodgy weather lasted all day, with dark clouds always only a few kilometers away.

At around 1pm I arrived at the Kyrgyzstan customs and immigration post, this still being about 15km from the actual border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan (seeing that the actual border is at 4280m, you can understand why).

The Kyrgyzstan customs and immigration people are in a word, corrupt. After he had a quick look through my bags, the customs guy said in good English with gold front teeth glistening, “So, Robert. Do you have a present for me? If present, immigration is very easy. Open gates for you!”

“No, no present, I’m afraid” I replied.

He let me go, but warned me that immigration might be tough. I said I would risk it.

I wheeled my bike over to the immigration building, and instantly had six or seven border guards jostling to have a go on it while I went inside with the immigration officer, a large man with thick glasses and of course the compulsory gold front teeth.

Immigration was easy. The officer took my passport and wrote down my details in the register. Then in Russian, “OK, Robert, $5 please.”

I don’t speak Russian, but I made clear that I wanted to know what the $5 was for. The officer indicated it was for the registry entry. I thought that this was very odd, considering I had never been asked for money at any other immigration post before.

I tried to inidicate that I wanted to see the official written rule that tourists must pay $5 for registry entry. Either he didn’t understand, or chose not to, but he just insisted that the $5 must be paid. Still not convinced, I gave him a $5 note anyway. As I was walking out the door, I saw him put it into his pocket.

Um, that is not where money paid to a goverment instituion usually goes, buddy. “Niet good, niet good” I said.

We walked back into the registry office, and the officer asked what the problem was. I asked why the money was going into his pocket, and that I would like the money back. Perhaps he thought I was going to snark on him, because he gave me the money back, and said “Durug, yes?” Head tilted back to see through the glasses that had slid down his nose. I think durug means friend.

He wasn’t giving up though. He explained that if I give him the $5, then he could call the Tajikistan immigration and ask that I am let through without any hassles.

I said I would risk it.

No man's land between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan / キルギスでもない、タジキスタンでもない。そういうところにある道はこのようになるものです。

Tajikistan at last / 念願のタジキスタン

Tajikistan immigration was a no-brainer. The immigration officer was more interested in whether I had any New Zealand coins on me. He is a coin collector you see. He has coins from 119 countries. Africa is the most difficult to get coins from, apparently.

So here I am, well and truely in Tajikistan on the Pamir Plateau. The silence is what amazes me. So silent.

Campsite at 4100m, Pamir Highway, Tajikistan / 標高4100mの野宿(タジキスタン、パミール高原)

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第67日目 - パミール高原:キチカラコル村(Kichi-Karakol)のちょっと先からサリタシュ町(Sari-Tash)のちょっと先まで
September 28th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン


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ええと〜

その山々を見てくださいよ。

Those mountains were a shock - I was headed straight for them - Sari Tash, Kyrgyzstan / 山の壁(キルギス,サリタシュ村)

その中に入っていくわけですよ。

ちょっと真剣になってきたかも。こりゃ日曜日のちょっとした「そこまでこいでみよう」のような自転車ツーリングではなくなってきました。真剣に怖くなってなってきました。

サリタシュへ下っていく峠を越えて、サリタシュに入ったとたんに思ったことです。真正面に山の壁がずら〜っと伸びていました。寒そうな、怒っているような山々。「あなたが僕らを入ろうとしたら、おまえを殺してやる」と。そう伝えている。その山たちが。

サリタシュまでに関しては、大きな峠がありました。標高3615mの峠でした。とにかく風が強くて、細かい砂があらゆる方向飛んでいました。峠の頂上までの最後の2kmの道路の路面はセメント(コンクリートの材料として用いる細かい砂)のような細かい砂でできていて、その砂にちょっとした風でも吹いていたら先が見えなくなるほど周りが真っ白になっていました。

3615m high pass before Sari-Tash, Kyrgyzstan / サリタシュ村に行く道(キルギス、3615mの峠)

そして峠を越えた!と思ったら、まだあとひとつの小さな峠がありました。今日もなかなかハードな一日でした。

Even the sealed bits had ruts! On the way to Sari-Tash, Kyrgyzstan / 一応舗装しているが。(キルギス、サリタシュ村へ向かう途中)

サリタシュでちゃんとした買い物ができます。お店(ロシア語で「マガジン」といいます)がいくつかあって、僕はコンロ用の燃料(ガソリン)、インスタントラーメン、卵、トマト、パスタ、缶詰魚などを買いました。

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第66日目 - パミール高原:グルチョ村(Gulcho)のちょっと先からキチカラコル村(Kichi-Karakol)のちょっと先まで(日本語要約)
September 27th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン


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Distance / 距離: 68.91km
Time / 時間: 6h 32m
Average speed / 平均速度: 10.5km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3070.3km

日本語要約:ジルカルベックさん、ウランベックさん、ありがとうございます!僕がテントを張った場所を見つかったら、この二人の兄弟はジャガイモ2kg、玉ねぎ多数、卵3個、絞りたての牛乳(まだあったかいんです!)を持ってきてくれました。お金は要りません!すごい。

Tough day. The tail wind that I had enjoyed yesterday had turned on me and was for most of the day a headwind. Without mention is the fact that it was all uphill today also. This road is heading up up up into the highlands of Tajikistan…

Contrasts near Kichi-Karakol, Kyrgyzstan / 対象する景色(キチカラコル村付近、キルギス)

 

To my surprise there were three cafe places along this stretch of road. All of which were in the middle of no where. Certainly not in tows. The first I stopped at and had some colourless but tasty enough permenyi (mutton wrapped in pasta). The second place I gave a miss, and the third I bought some bread. My guess is that these places make their money from the regular truck traffic along this road. Most of the trucks seem to be coming from China loaded with bales of cotton of all things.

There were some small villages along this stretch, but I wouldn’t count on finding any stores to buy food.

I’ve had a real mix of experiences with the locals today. Kids are a delight but a little annoying when they run along behind you and hang onto your bike. This means you’re dragging them up the hill too! At the third cafe a couple of drunks were having goes trying to ride my bike while I bought my bread. They started getting agro when I refused to let them continue playing on the bike when I needed to leave. I got really close to yelling at them. After their friend dragged them off into their car, I noticed that my map and a water bottle were missing (always attached to a pannier).

I was 98% sure that the drunks had taken off with them, but gave them the benefit of the doubt, figuring that they may have fallen off the bike on one of the short downhills further back. This did not stop me from getting more and more upset that they would steal my map! In the end, to my immense relief the map (in a map case) and bottle were on the road about 3km back.

The best experience of the Kyrgyz people has been left to last it seems, however. My image that I had built up regarding Kyrgyz people was ‘look, a foreigner - let’s see how much money we can make off him!’

This image was broken down this evening when two local lads (I’m thinking twins, since they were brothers but the same age - they were 20) discovered my tent and promptly set about spending the entire evening with me. They spoke no English, I spoke no Russian or Kyrgyz. No problem. We managed to have a conversation over dinner (my rolled oats, potato, tomato, egg, onion, cheese and carrot stew), them sitting around the entrance of the tent where I sat.

Friendly Kyrgyz lads, near Kichi-Karakol, Kyrgyzstan / フレンドリーな青年たち(キルギズ、キチカラコル村付近)

 

While I was preparing the stew, one o the brothers, Jilkalbek, said “You’re going to need some more potatoes! And how about some eggs?”

I explained that I would love to have some more potatoes and some eggs would be great. How much do you want for them?

Jilkabek would hear nothing of it. It was his gift for me. He sent his brother Ulanbek off to their house (apparently just over the hill) to get them, and sure enough he came back half an hour later with about 2kg of potatoes, several onions, three eggs, and to top it off, 1.5 litres of freshly milked cow’s milk (like, it was still warm).

I wasn’t quite sure what to say. Thank you seemed pathetic.

Friendly Kyrgyz lads, near Kichi-Karakol, Kyrgyzstan / フレンドリーな青年たち(キルギズ、キチカラコル村付近)

 

It was pitch black by the time Jilkalbek and Ulanbek left to go home (about 8:30pm). I offered to light the way with my torch, but they said they knew the way. I suppose when you live in what I consider to be wilderness, you get to know your way around…

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第65日目 - パミール高原:オシュ市からグルチョ村(Gulcho)のちょっと先まで
September 26th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン


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Distance / 距離: 87.02km
Time / 時間: 5h 35m
Average speed / 平均速度: 15.5km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3000.7km

「パミール高原」の初日です。英語では「Pamir Highway」です。この道はキルギスのオシュ市からタジキスタンの首都のドゥシャンベ市まで続く。「世界の屋根」と呼ばれる、この道は世界中でももっとも離れている地域のひとつを通る道です。ここからどんどん車も人も通らないところへ入り込みます。

The local ladies, on the way to Jalalabat, Kyrgyzstan / 街角に座る女性たち(ジャララバッド町付近、キルギス)

しかし現実へ戻りますと、今のところ中国からキルギスへ入ってきているトラックが次々とこの道を通っています。確かに僕が目指しているサリタシュ町(Sari-Tash)から東へ向かうと中国へ行く道があります。僕はその道ではなくて、南に行く、タジキスタンへつなぐ道を通る予定です。

しかし今日はなかなかよく自転車を乗りました。予定の40kmではなくて81kmができて、絶対に一日で越えれないと思った峠を立派に越えて、今は木の下に座ってこのレポートを書いています。今夜もテントなしで寝るつもりです。雨は本当にめったに降らないような地域です。朝は冷えるけど、大した寒さではないので、テントを張る面どくさよりはましです。

Lunch break at a check point - about 20km from Osh on the Pamir Highway (Kyrgyzstan) / お昼です(オシュ市を出て20km時点にある軍隊チェックポイント)

ところで、今日はたった2回目、自転車を運転中に外国人と出逢いました。今回はイギリス人の2人で、バイクに乗っていました。そしてなんと僕と同じくタジキスタンのパミール高原を目指していると。そして彼らによると、僕の35km後ろに2人のサイクリストがいると。その2人はタジキスタンではなくて中国へ目指していると。しかも、中国・キルギスの国境はあと3日で閉じるらしい。その2人は急がないとやばい・・・

Now that is the sign we like to see! (1100m drop from Chirchik Pass, Kyrgyzstan) / ロバートが大好きな下り坂。今回は1100mをくだった(チルチック峠、キルギス)

明日はサリタシュ町まで行けといいですけど、一日で100km近くと標高3615mの峠はちっと無理かも・・・

グルチョ村で簡単な食料は購入可能

Three grand, just outside of Gulcho, Kyrgyzstan / 3000km達成(グルチョ町、キルギス)

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第64日目 - オシュ市での休日
September 25th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, キルギス


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タジキスタンまであと220km。キルギスのビザが切れるまであと5日間。タジキスタンまで登らないと行けない高度あと3000m。要するに明日から少なくとも一日距離40kmと高度600mを重ねなければなりません。とてもハードな条件です。もちろんやってみます。

ちなみに、僕が次にホームページを更新できるのはいつになるかわかりません。もしかしたらタジキスタンの首都のドゥシャンベ(Dushanbe)になるかもしれません。でしたら次の更新まで15日間かかる可能性があります。その間、しばらくお待ちください。

タジキスタンのパミール高原の写真とアップデートをお楽しみにしてください!

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第63日目 - ジャララバッド(Jalalabat)からオシュ市(Osh)まで
September 24th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, キルギス


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Time / 時間: 7h 20m
Average speed / 平均速度: 16.3km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 2914.2kmかなり急いでいます。タジキスタンのビザ期間は5日間前に始まりました。キルギスにいてOKな期間はあとわずか6日間。しかし一応今日の目的は達成できました。長い一日でしたが、オシュに到着できました。

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第62日目 - カルダマ峠(Kaldama Ashuu)のふもとからジャララバッド(Jalalabat)の手前まで(日本語要約)
September 23rd, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, キルギス


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Distance / 距離: 102.59km
Time / 時間: 6 53m
Average speed / 平均速度: 14.9km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 2794.7km

日本語要約:え?まだキルギスですか。と思うほど景色が変わりました。カルダマ峠から降りてきたらひまわり栽培が盛んになってきて、人たちも何かが違う・・・

Once again amazed at the strength of this bicycle. Absolutely bombing it down the pass at between 30 to 40 km/h, hitting some fairly chunky rocks, and not a scratch…the suspension really comes into play in these situations. There have been many times on the trip so far that I am certain I would have bent a rim or broken a spoke if it had not been for the suspension. Also, even though the bike has abou 35kg of gear strapped to it, you’d never know it. It is extremely nimble, and the disc brakes are a real bonus too - you stop when you want to stop.

As for surroundings, I feel as though I have dropped into another country all together. Lush valleys with apple trees, walnut trees, and then wide valleys with sunflower plantations.

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第61日目 - カザルマンのちょっと向こうからカルダマ峠(Kaldama Ashuu)のふもとまで
September 22nd, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, キルギス


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Distance / 距離: 34.31km
Time / 時間: 3h 45m
Average speed / 平均速度: 9.1km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 2692.1km

登る、登る!峠まであと700mのところにテントを午後4時に張りました。まだまだ乗る時間がありましたが、登る途中にテントの場所があるかどうかわかりませんでした。となりの農民によると狼がたまにいるから食べられるかもしれませんよ!

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第60日目 - ドドモル村(Dodomol)からカザルマン町(Kazarman)のちょっと向こうまで(日本語要約)
September 21st, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, キルギス


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Distance / 距離: 76.80km
Time / 時間: 6h 01m
Average speed / 平均速度: 12.7km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 2657.8km

日本語要約:もう一本の峠のあと、カザルマンに到着。今夜はテントなしで寝ます!

My hopes for a nice long dowhill to Kazarman were dashed with a big fat pass in the middle. This did give me reason however to continue to marvel at the incredible piece of engineering that is this bike that I am riding on. The roads here are appalling. Very rocky, very bumpy. However, no matter how hard I ride the bike down these steep steep passes, the bike just laps it up. I am quite convinced that it is most entirely indestructable…

I sleep with no tent tonight. Just because.

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