Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：91.07km
Time on bike / 走行時間：5h 16m
Average speed / 平均速度：17.2km/h
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：518.5km
Money used / 予算使用：40,000KRW (NZ$67, US$41)

I’ve worked it out. The answer to it all lies in one thing.

Icecream.

And other sweet things like Gatorade and more icecreams. You see, I never was one to eat snacks between meals. While in Japan, even if I was given cake or other snacks, they would end up going off in my fridge. I never got around to eating them. Now I realise the truth in my mentor David’s words that sweet things are good (David was a fellow workmate who worked wonders in trying to fatten me up before leaving on the adventure).

I find now that if I have two or three sweet icecreams between my main meals, my body is much happier. Mentally it is much better also. It also takes time to eat an icecream. This gives me a chance to sit down in the shade and cool off for a few minutes before carrying on. Getting on the road by 6:30am each day makes a huge difference also.

I am of course talking about distance. I guess my body is getting used to the weight of the bike over the past ten days, but I am getting some much more reasonable distances under my belt.

Along with distance is time. I can stay on the road for longer. This does however lead to other problems such as ‘ashphalt syndrome’. This is a term that I have coined, however I believe that with the proper research it will soon be proven to be a true and proper phenomenom. That is, when one is subjected to long hours on a strange contraption that allows you to lie back and relax while pedalling, one becomes quite stark raving mad. I offer the following evidence to back up my theory:

• Songs sung today in a very loud voice (about half an hour per song)
  - I Will Survive
  - It’s a Long Way to Tipareri
  - There’s a Hole in Me Bucket (note the ‘me’ rather than ‘my’)
• Accent immitations attempted (also in a very loud voice)
  - Most of the characters from the movies Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels and Snatch. My favourite was Hatchet Harry’s henchman along with the bad guy with the pigs out of Snatch.
  - Much time was spent perfecting my Scottish accent, with particular emphasis on the ‘r’ sound.

Perhaps this also has something to do with the number of icecreams I consumed today. It may however be just due to the joy I felt after not dying in the freakiest tunnel known to man:

 Oh man that was a thriller.

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (23)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：93.45km
Time on bike / 走行時間：5h 55m
Average speed / 平均速度：15.7km/h
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：427.4km
Money used / 予算使用：44,000KRW (5,300JPY)

English summary:Two things I learned about Korea today – Korea is hot. And Korea is hilly. Crossed three passes today and wrang my shirt out at the top of each. I mean really. Lots of sweat. Gatorade was the hero of the day. Drank four litres of the stuff. Along with about the same amount of water. Height of the highest pass was only 380m, but I felt each metre of it.

１日休みを取ったから今日はリフレッシュな気分で走れるはずでしたが、朝から暑くて厳しい１日となりました。

モテルを出たのは朝７時半。韓国のアルプスを越さなければ行けないことはすでに知っていたので、ちょっとした緊張を感じながらペダルを踏みました(押しました?)。しかし今日は旅の今まで一番きれいな景色を経験することができました。高度は大したことないが、韓国のアルプスの景色はたいへんナチュラルな感じです。山と川はあまり人の手がつけていない状態で、背の低い松が主な植物のようです。私が選んだルートは昨日と同じで、２５号線でした。今日もあまり車がいなくて、小さな村しかなかったので、暑さ以外は気持ちよく走れました。

主な峠は３つありました。最初の峠は朝９時ごろに越しましたのでそこまで暑さは感じませんでした。それでも峠の上でシャツをしぼれば汗がドサッとたれました。一番苦しかった峠は報恩市（ボエン市）から今泊まっている淸州市（チェオンジュ市）境界戦にある峠でした。わずかの380mの高度でしたが、太陽の暑さと風のなさに,あの坂の厳しさ。シャツが汗でびっしょりなのに、その汗そのものが暑い。もうこれを耐え切れたらなんでもできると思いました。峠の上で普通の値段の何倍もするポカリスエットの缶を３本飲んで、峠のところにいた家族にもらったスイカを食べてから淸州市までの長いくだりを楽しみました。

今日も怪しいラブホテルに泊まっています。シャワー室付きの部屋は一人だったら25,000KRWでとてもリーズナブル。自転車も部屋の中におけるので一安心。旅の前は「宿泊は基本的に野宿だ」と言っていましたが、なかなかそういかない。でもま、先が長いので、なれるまではしばらく楽にしてもいいかな・・・

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (2)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：11.10km
Time on bike / 走行時間：40m
Average speed / 平均速度：16.6km/h
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：334.0km
Money used / 予算使用：8,000KRW (NZ$13, US$8.40)

I liked this town so much that I decided to take a day off here. The main event was the local Bicycle Museum. It is about 5km out of town, but they have a cycle path running from town right to the front gate of the museum. Did I mention that this town is friendly to cyclists? It is very friendly to cyclists. Pity that that fact has made no impression on the use of cycles. In total I have seen two cyclists in this city…

Anyway, there were many weird and wonderful cycles at the museum. There were also ones you could take for rides in the car park. Most were in disrepair. But that did not deter the many children visiting today to drag their parents over to the tandems and order them to take them for a ride. It just reminds me how much joy such a simple machine as a bicycle brings. By the way, when was the last time you rode double with someone? You know, your friend pedals while you hold on for dear life, sitting on the rickety carrier. I have decided that even grown-ups need to ride double sometimes…the kids were loving it. For all the bike photos, check out my flickr.com account.

Other than that, due to the rain I have just been hanging out in my motel room doing some handwashing of clothes. Tomorrow will be another early start with a big climb over the alps to start the day.

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (7)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：98.70km
Time on bike / 走行時間：5h 55m
Average speed / 平均速度：16.6km/h
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：322.9km
Money used / 予算使用：67,000KRW

English summary: Left the motel at 6:30am to beat the heat of the day, and it payed off with me being able to do almost 100km on a smooth highway with hardly any traffic. Staying in a small town called Seongju, very friendly, has bicycle lanes and a bicycle museum. And has a strangely large amount of fried chicken restaurants. Staying here two nights.

計画どおり、今朝は５時半におきました。モテルを出たのは６時半。最初のチャレンジはまずタエグ市を出ることでしたが、それだけで３時間かかりました。遠回りを何回した後、やっと２５号線の始まりに着きました。昨日と同じように朝ご飯は出発して２時間ほど後でした。本当は出発前に食べたいが、前日の夜に次の朝の糧を買うのをいつも忘れるものですよ。今後は忘れないようにがんばろう。

そしてまた予定どおりに、１１時ごろにちょうど良い休む場所（パゴダ）を見つけて１時間半ほど横になりました。その充電の元で結局100km近く走行ができました。それと今日の道路はとてもよかったです。路面が平らで、車がほとんどなかった。自分のために道路が作られたような感じでした。

それで今はサングジュ市のモテルにいます。ちょうど町に着いたとたんに夕立と雷が始まったのでキャンプをやめました。そしてこの町は間違えなく韓国の一番フレンドリーな町です。韓国でのハイライトになりそう。第一印象はいくつか：高校生が多い、からあげ屋さん（フライドチキン）が多い、自転車にやさしい（自転車博物館がある、自転車専用の道路が設けている）。ここに二泊泊まることにしました。

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (3)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：About 70km
Time on bike / 走行時間：
Average speed / 平均速度：
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：
Money used / 予算使用：39,000KRW (NZ$65, US$41)

 I forgot to bring my bike computer to the net cafe so the stats will have to wait for antother day. And I am surrounded by gunfire. I’m note sure what the game is that everyone is playing, but obviously noone has discovered headphones at net cafes here.

 It has been two days of extremes. Yesterday I was wet to the bone, today I am burnt to a crisp. Left the guest house at about 9:30am after numerous photos with the other guests, and proceeded to have a very fruitful morning worth of riding. I was riding on the very generous shoulder of a highway for the whole day, which was quite alright with me. Good smooth riding with gentle ups and sweet downs. Twas very hot and I didn’t choose to apply sun block. Very dumb idea. I also did not rinse my shirt out well enough after hand washing it yesterday. Therefore I am also spotted Rob in addition to being baked Rob.

I was riding very well till about 2pm when my body simply succumed to the heat. I had a very long break in the shade next to a service station where I was given a free iceblock and some biscuits, after which I continued my slog onwards towards Daegu City.

In no mood to set up camp in the heat, I headed to the Daegu train station information booth where I was quickly told by the lady at the counter that “I don’t speak English”. Uh oh. “I only speak Japanese”. Then speak away, I said, and was promptly offered a full recount of the history of Daegu before I could get a word in edgewise and ask about a youth hostel. “Nearest youth hostel is 50 minutes by bus up a very large hill”. OK, so what else is there? “Many motels down the street. Ask around and you will get a good price”.

I went into the first motel I could find and was shown a room for 25,000KRW a night. In no mood to look around for somewhere cheaper, I took the room. It has a condom dispenser on the wall just as you walk in the door. A guy downstairs asked me if I had a girl for tonight. Hmmmm. I get the feeling its not often that just one person stays in a room at this motel…

 Great news for the day is that I can withdraw cash from my Visa card from most convenience store ATMs.

I was a good boy and took more photos today. Mouse over for description.

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (12)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：28.94km
Time on bike / 走行時間：1h 56m
Average speed / 平均速度：14.9km/h
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：155.8km
Money used / 予算使用：29,600KRW（NZ$49, US$31）

English summary: You know how I said that it was great weather yesterday? Yeah well that was until about 11pm at night. Massive rain turned the river to chocolate whip. My tent got wet even under the pagoda roof. Left the pagoda late at 10:30am, and headed for Gyeonju City. That’s where I am now after getting really wet and deciding to find a place to stay. Nice Korean-style guest house. I’m a bit concerned with the pace at present, but that can’t be helped. No point in pushing it too hard now and not be able to continue later.

確かに昨日のブログでは「今日のキャンプサイトが最高」と書いたと思いますが、途中からの天気は残念ながらそうではなかった。土砂降りでした。生憎の雨は朝、そして一日中強く降っていました。以下の写真で分かると思いますが、近くの川が雨で濃い茶色になりました。夕べに向こう側の河原でテントを張って泊まってた2人は朝になったらいませんでした。テントが張っていたところはもう完全に水につかっている・・・流されたのか・・・

Yesterday / 昨日

Today / 今日

結局夕べのキャンプサイト（屋根つきパゴダ)を出たのは朝10:30でした。もう、一日ここに居ようやという考えもしましたが、結局でることにしました。10時半ごろはもう小雨だったし。

向かったのは一応30km先の慶州市でした。それでそこに泊まることにしました。疲れ的には、前に進んでも全然平気でしたが、雨がとにかくひどかった。カッパの調整が悪かったかのか、どんなカッパを着てもどうしようもなかったのか分かりませんが、慶州市に着いたらもうずぶ濡れ。観光案内所に行ったらキレイな民宿（guest house）を案内してくれました。値段は一泊20,000KRWで予算オーバーだけど、ま、しょうがない。韓国の昔の家です。塀に囲まれていて、真ん中にちょっとした広場があります。明日の天気が良ければ一泊だけにするつもりです。

全体的には、期待していた走行のペースはできていないことはちょっと気になります。特に気になるのは季節です。寒い天候が来る前に中央アジアを通らないととても厳しい目にあうはずです。1ヶ月間の身体の調子を読みながら様子を良く見ないといけません。

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (7)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：51.70km
Time on bike / 走行時間：3h 26m
Average speed / 平均速度：15km/h
Total distance to date / 現在までの積算距離：126.9km
Money used / 予算使用：12,000KRW (NZ$20, US$12)

I woke up rearing to go this morning, so did about 20km before breakfast. Those 20km would take me through the most polluted area of Korea that I have seen so far. Acres upon acres of factories and heavy industry blew out masses of steam and other, nastier substances into the atmosphere. Smells included pesticides, solvents, and the smell you get when grinding steel.

After getting just far enough away from the greenhouse zone, I stopped for breakfast (Korean style rice balls). It was here that I had a snooze for about 30mins before continuing on.

Today I realised just how hopeless the Tourist’s Map of Korea that I have is (no offence to Hyun-ju who bought the map for me). The scale is just too big, and doesn’t give me a good idea of secondary roads. I was on near-expressway like roads all day today, and it wasn’t much like fun. I guess the upside is that the uphills are all much more gradual.

Getting out of Ulsan City was a nightmare. All the roads were very busy and did not have pedestrian crossings. I had to be rather assertive in my manuvering through traffic, The bonus with this bike is that it draws attention and drivers are more inclined to slow down and trail me just to have a gawk.

My campsite today couldn’t be better. Great view, river nearby (washed me and my clothes in it), and a convenient pagoda with raised floor on which to pitch my tent. It even has a roof, so even though it is raining my tent doesn’t get wet.

Today also included a two hour netcafe stint to upload photos and blog entries. Three days worth to be exact.

Weather is fantastic. Upper 20s to low 30s, but not at all humid.

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (1)

Distance / 走行距離：50.33km
Time on bike / 走行時間 : 3h 45m
Average speed / 平均速度：13.4m/h
Total distance / 現在までの積算距離：75.2km

Summary: Felt pretty blue this morning. Surrounded by city, just had to get out. Biked 50km to Jinha beach and shared a free camping ground with about 400 screaming school kids. Stoked to be out of the city though and into the countryside. Not much different from Japan though.

７時半に起きたときに、気持ちが重かった。プサンという巨大な町に囲まれて、旅は想像していたｶたちとは違う。もっと自由に走りたいのに信号機、交差点、車・・・一方今までにない恐怖感、不安もある。プサンから出たいが、出発の準備をしても何もわくわく感もない。ま、今日はとにかくちょっとだけでいいから走りましょうと、思い切って決意をしました。

それで結局５０km走れました。本調子ではないが、まず最初のほうはゆっくりと。プサンを後にするために２時間強かかりました。自転車が珍しいから車道に走っても車が十分注意（興味）を払って横に通ってくれる。

朝に出たときにウルサン市まででも走ろうかと思っていましたが、そうすると無理してしまうということがすぐにわかりました。１２時ごろ、体がもう限界だと言っていました。午後１時になったらもうホテルを探し出して泊まろうかと思っていたが、なかなかホテルをどうやってみつけるか、わからなくて、野宿することにしました。場所は砂浜のすぐ近くの無料のキャンプ場。飲んでワイワイ言いそうな人も近くにたくさんテントを張っているから、今夜は寝れるかな・・・ちょうど今花火のパラパラの音が聞こえている。韓国の夏休みだ。

晩ご飯はインスタントヌードル。甘口と書いてたのに辛い。

今の気持ち：なかなか良い感じ。テントという、自分の空間ができていて、ほしかったスペースがやっと得られました。

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (7)

Today’s Distance / 今日の走行距離：12.58km
Time on bike / 走行時間：1h 11m
Average speed / 平均速度：10.6km/h
Total distance / 現在までの積算距離：20.6km

Apparently I’m biking across the continent. But it’s day two and aready I’m having a day off. I really shoud have a week off. Still feeling very jaded from the last month or so of preparations before leaving Japan. It was quite stressful in the fact that I needed to uproot my life in Japan and leave with the intention of not coming back after the trip. Sending stuff home to New Zealand, cancelling utilities, sorting out money and banking…

But I’m not going to have any more days off in this city. The dirty air is giving me coughs, the roads are noisy, there are people everywhere. Tomorrow I head to Ulsan, or at least in that direction anyway. I will follow the coast up the east of Korea, as according to the hostel owner here (I’m staying at Blue Backpackers Hostel in Pusan) you can get away with camping on the beaches. It is about 70km to Ulsan, however I would rather find a beach close-ish to the city and crash there for the night. I plan on taking it really easy for the first few weeks.

By the way, Pusan is a very hilly city. I went for a quick blat around the place today and found myself on the top of a great lumping hill. Lunch was had at a buffet all you can eat joint. Here they do buffets the real-man’s way. That is, you get your plate and fill it up not with ready to eat food, but with a selection of raw meat. This is the cooked by you at your table. Just as well grandpa owner was in a good mood and showed me what to do. The younger waitress looked in no mood to help the hapless foreign tourist.

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     No comments

Distance / 走行距離：7.75km
Time on bike / 走行時間：35分58秒
Average speed / 平均速度：13.0km/h
Total distance / 現在までの積算距離：7.75km

Summary: Tired, staying at small backpackers (see link below) in Pusan.
今日は複雑な思いがたくさんあります：

• 日本を離れることについて
  寂しさが胸の中にありながら、解放感、幸福感が沸いてくる。その中にも恐怖感、緊張感もある。しかし、その全部の気持ちの裏にはもっとも強いのは単純な「早く自転車を漕いで、知らない土地に行きたい」という気持ちです。
• 旅をはじめることについて
  旅についてまったく何もわけがわかりませんということがよくわかりました。特にお金の管理について。どうやってお金をわけて、安全に持ち歩くのか。どれくらいをいっぺん両替するのか。何とか当ててみて、それがありだと願うだけです。

とはいえ、その緊張感や不安にもかかわらず、一日目はうまく行きました。プサンのフェリー乗り場で日本語をしゃべってくれる案内所があって、そこで泊まるところを聞いたところ、現在は「Blue Backpackers Hostel」というユースホステルにいます。マンションの１８階のアパートがホステルに改造されていて、とても狭いところですけど、２泊泊まることにしました。

今日のハペニング：
フェリーのりばに着いて、自転車と荷物の整理をしたら、タクシー運転手２人がやってきました。とてもフレンドリーな御２人でした。そこで１人はどうやら僕の水筒に興味を示していて、水筒を触っているではないか。あ、水筒に貼り付けている日本の国旗のステッカーをはがそうとしているではないか。僕は慌てて国旗が見えないように、水筒を回転させました。やはり反日感が強い韓国に着きましたなと思いました。

« Previous Day                                                                                                   Next Day »

    Permanent Link     Comments (8)