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第80日目 - ランガール村(Langar)からヴァラング村(Warang)まで(日本語要約)
October 11th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン


Even though Warang is only 30km from Langar, I knew I was only going to do that distance right from the start today. If this was anywhere but the Wakhan Valley, I probably could have stayed in Langar, but my craving for some variation in my diet drove me here.

I was motivated by the fact that there was a ‘big’ bazaar here in Warang. That ‘big’ bazaar turned out to be no more than a few shops selling the same stuff as anywhere else along the road so far. No dairy products or fresh fruit. That is, easy to eat food. The food here very hard to stomach. Today for lunch I was fed the staple potato, carrot, and mutton soup, of course with the compulsory 1cm thick layer of vegetable oil on top. Not good when you’re feeling as weak as I am.

The guesthouse I am staying in tonight is just across from the bazaar in Warang, and is one of the cheapest places I have stayed in so far on this trip. Only 5 Tajik Somoni a night (US$1.30). The meals (aforementioned vegetable oil soup) are only US$1.

As per usual, the Tajik people have been wonderfully friendly. As I rolled into Warang, the chain on my bike got caught between the spokes and the gear cluster on the rear wheel. Nothing serious, but enough to require getting very oily hands as you get things sorted.

So here I am wrestling with the chain, when four or five guys wander over, and begin to ‘help’. Basically, everyone had an opinion on how to get the chain out, and at most of the time for the 30 minutes it took to fix the problem, there were at least three pairs of hands tugging and fiddling with the chain at the same time. I was convinced it would be much faster if they just left me to it, but the situation was quite out of my hands…

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第78日目 - ランガール村(Langar)の30km手前からランガール村まで(日本語要約)
October 9th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 26.68km
Time / 時間: 2h 28m
Average speed / 平均速度: 10.8km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3584.6km


I don’t know what I ate, but I spewed harder than I can ever remember last night. In three separate ‘movements’, my body produced a symphony of agony. The first bout emptied my stomach of the big meal of pasta and potatoes that I had cooked in the evening. It was here that I started to drink plenty of water to keep myself hydrated. However, the following two bouts emptied any water that I had taken.

By morning, I was out of water, with most of it on the ground, and very little in my system. Of course unable to stomach breakfast, I had to start pedalling with very tired legs and no energy. My situation worsened the further I pedalled. For 15km there was no water flowing in the streams that had at some stage gouged stream beds into the hillside.

Finally, after resigning to the fact that I would have to plod on without water, I came across a small spring trickling water out of a crack in a rock. Here I filtered a litre, added some sweet drink mix, and skulled the lot. It was no miracle cure, and I still felt weak, needing to push the bike at a snail’s pace up the otherwise hardly noticable short uphills where the road would follow the ridges and gullies of the hillside.

Let's ride on rocks! Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan / 岩の上に自転車で走りましょうか?(タジキスタン、ワカン谷)

VERY big - Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan / でっかい!(タジキスタン、ワカン谷)

Food poisoning is not good for cycling in remote places - Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan / こんな離れたところで病気になったら、気分わるくなるものです(タジキスタン、ワカン谷)

I rolled into Langar just before lunchtime and checked into the first guesthouse I could find. At US$17 a day (including meals), it was rediculously overpriced, but I was in no condition to shop around.

Langar, Tajikistan / タジキスタン、ランガール村

I gobbled down the fried potato and onion dish they served me for lunch and promptly passed out until evening. At 6pm, my temperature was 38.0 degrees celcius. I could only stomach the soup for dinner. After my previous experiences with central Asian pasta, I had to try hard not to throw up at the sight of the potato and pasta salad…

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第77日目 - ワカン谷:ハーグシュ峠(Khargush Pass)からランガール村(Langar)の30km手前
October 8th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 47.27km
Time / 時間: 4h 26m
Average speed / 平均速度: 10.6km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3557.9km



Sandy road between Pamir Highway and Langar in Wakhan Valley (Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan) / 柔らかい路面(タジキスタン、パミール道路とワカン谷の間の道路)


A moment of reflection in the upper Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan, with Afganistan in the background / 反省?(タジキスタン、ワカン谷)


Campspot 30km from Langar, with Afganistan mountains in distance / ランガール村まであと30kmの野宿(タジキスタン(向こうの山はアフガニスタン))

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第76日目 - サシコル湖(Sasikol)からハーグシュ峠(Kargush Pass (標高4335m))まで(日本語要約)
October 7th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 40.30km
Time / 時間: 4h 3m
Average speed / 平均速度: 10km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3510.6km


I woke from a good sleep despite the creepy ruins. I think you’d get used to them. As I was eating breakfast, a local from over the hill wandered over cautiously, and we had a chat. I can’t imagine he has seen too many foreigners camped out in this compound.

This compound has a pipe with running water by the way. The local that came over this morning was coming to get water from it. Sasikol lake is a salt lake, as are the smaller ponds around this area. Therefore it appears that this compound may be the only place to get good water in this area.

Lake near Khargush Pass, Tajikistan / ハルグシュ峠付近の湖、タジキスタン

As for the climb up to Khargush Pass, this has been the hardest day of climbing I have ever had! Sandy, corrugated, rocky, steep roads For the first time I have had to push the bike up some of the steeper sections due to lack of traction.

What a road! Steep, rocky, sandy - Khargush Pass (4300m), Tajikistan / こりゃ道路じゃない!(タジキスタン、ハルグシュ峠(4300m))

From the top I felt sad to start biking down the pass. I am essentially coming down off the roof of the world, and I can’t imagine that I’ll be back. Life at 4000m plus is an interesting and challenging experience that I have enjoyed, albiet acompanied by some tough challenges.

Tonight I am sleeping in a deserted nomads hut. They have obviously left to move further down the valley for summer. It is a bit of a treat however - there is plenty of dry dung around, so I have started a fire, and baked some potatoes in the embers, Rather nice…

Deserted summer nomad hut, Khargush Pass (4300m), Tajikistan / 夏に使用される小谷(タジキスタン、ハルグシュ峠(4300m))

Dung fire (Deserted summer nomad hut, Khargush Pass (4300m), Tajikistan / フンのたき火 (夏に使用される小谷(タジキスタン、ハルグシュ峠(4300m)))

Potato baked in embers of dung fire Deserted summer nomad hut, Khargush Pass (4300m), Tajikistan) / ふんのたき火で焼いた焼き芋(夏に使用される小谷(タジキスタン、ハルグシュ峠(4300m)))

Deserted summer nomad hut, Khargush Pass (4300m), Tajikistan / 夏に使用される小谷(タジキスタン、ハルグシュ峠(4300m))

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第75日目 - ナイザタシュ峠(Nayzatash Pass)からサシコル湖(Sasikol)まで
October 6th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 59.95km
Time / 時間: 4h 44m
Average speed / 平均速度: 12.6km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3419.5km


Ruins at Sasikol, Tajikistan / タジキスタン,サシコル村の跡

Spooky campspot at Sasikol, Tajikistan / 妙な雰囲気(タジキスタン、サシコル村の跡)


Alichur, Tajikistan / タジキスタン、アリチュール村


Head winds getting me down - near Alichur, Tajikistan / 向かい風がやめない(タジキスタン、アリチュール村付近)

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第74日目 - パミール高原:ムルガブ町(Murghab)からナイザタシュ峠(Nayzatash Pass(標高4130m))まで(日本語要約)
October 5th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 56.40km
Time / 時間: 5h 08m
Average speed / 平均速度: 11.1km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3409.6km


My homestay host for the last two days had given me rice pudding for breakfast. Great cycing breakfast. But today for some reason she made eggs. Three fried eggs dripping in oil. Not the greatest start to the day…

A checkpoint guard tries out the recumbent - near Murghab, Tajikistan / 軍人がリカンベントに乗る(タジキスタン、ムルガブ町)

I left Murghab late at 10:30am, and it felt good to be on the road after the two days of rest. Remembering that there was no water for the 60km or so leading up to Murghab, I filled about three litres into my water bag just in case there was none out of Murghab also. Two kids appeared while I was filtering the water, and they helpfully suggested that I simply dip the bag into the water rather than use ‘that silly pump’. Obviously they were not aware that ‘the silly pump’ was getting rid of nasties as it worked…

Cold weather towards Nayzatash Pass, Tajikistan / ナイザタシュ峠付近の冷たい風(タジキスタン)

At present I am camped just past Nayzatash Pass right next to the road. The wind had picked up in the evening (of course a headwind) so putting the tent up required some effort, especially considering that I needed to pitch it cross to the wind.

Chilly morning on Nayzatash Pass, Tajikistan / 冷たい朝(タジキスタン、ナイザタシュ峠)

I am looking forward to the downhill tomorrow!

Boom! Nayzatash Pass (4120m), Tajikistan / ナイザタシュ峠(標高4120m)、タジキスタン

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第72,73日目 - ムルガブ村(Murghab)にて
October 4th, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン



- インスタントラーメン 25パケット
- ジャガイモ 7個
- 人参 7本
- 玉ねぎ 5個
- 缶詰魚(250g) 4つ
- 卵 10個
- raisins 500g
- peanuts 500g

5日間分の食料です。ここから、次に食料が買えるところまで、5日間がかかる予定ですから。もともと、ムルガブ村から直接にパミール道でハログ町(Kharugh)まで行く予定でした。しかし、いくつかのほかの旅行者の話によると、もっと南にあるワカン谷(Wakhan Valley)のほうがもっと面白いですから、ワカン谷に行くことにしました。

ワカン谷の中心はパンジ川(Panj River)です。この川はアフガニスタンとタジキスタンの国境にもなっていますので、今度走る道路はアフガニスタンからわずか200mにあるところになります。


Murghab, Tajikistan / タジキスタン、ムルガブ町

Ladies selling yak milk, yak yoghurt - Murghab, Tajikistan / ヤクの乳製品を売る女性たち(タジキスタン、ムルガブ町)

Stove made entirely from a 40 gallon drum (no welding, all folded) - Murgab, Tajikistan / ドラム缶でできた焜炉(タジキスタン、ムルガブ町)

Murghab, Tajikistan / タジキスタン、ムルガブ町

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第71日目 - アクバイタル峠(Kotali Aqbaytal)の30km先からムルガブ町(Murghab)まで
October 2nd, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 59.91km
Time / 時間: 3h 12m
Average speed / 平均速度: 18.6km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3353.1km





Near Murghab, Tajikistan / ムルガブ町付近、タジキスタン


ムルガブではエコツーリズムが盛んです。META(Murghab Eco Tourism Association - ムルガブ エコツーリズム 協会)があって、そこに行けば、町の中のホームステー(民宿みたいなもん)のところを紹介してくれます。僕が紹介されたのはきれいな民宿で、一泊700円低度(US$6)、食事は別(晩ご飯300円、朝食180円)。残念ながら水道も、シャワーもなし。土曜日か日曜日だったら町の銭湯みたいなところがあいているようですが、僕にとって、この6日間の汗はそのまま残るみたい。

Evening meal at Murghab homestay, Murghab, Tajikistan / ムルガブ町でのホームステイの晩ご飯(タジキスタン、ムルガブ町)


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第70日目 - パミール高原:カラコル湖(Karakol Lake)からアクバイタル峠(Kotali Aqbaytal)の30km先まで(日本語要約)
October 1st, 2006 | categorizilation: 全カテゴリー, タジキスタン

Distance / 距離: 78.65km
Time / 時間: 5h 49m
Average speed / 平均速度: 13.5km/h
Distance to date / 今日までの積算距離: 3293.2km


This daily report is being written in Murghab, after the actual day. The reason being that a headache all but disabled my every function towards the end of day 70.

As with the day before, the day began with sore legs. Maybe it was the altitude, perhaps lack of proper rest, could be due to not enough food, or the wrong food? I think it was more due to a lack of a rest day (the day in Osh was too busy with getting food, updating website etc) than anything else.

Towards Aqbaytal Pass, Tajikistan / ウクバイタル峠へ向かう途中(タジキスタン)

The road up until a non-existant town called Muzkol was the best I have ridden on, perhaps ever. A thick layer of tar meant that the road was smooth and silky. After this however, the road deteriorated into non-avoidable corrugations that just kept on going and going and going, right up until a small plateau half way up the pass at 4300m. This stretch of road was perhaps the lowest time of the trip so far.

The scenery was blank and cold, and not even one car passed in those whole two hours. The situation was not helped by the fact that I was out of snack food. Nothing to eat to give me energy…

Just let anyone else take over right now, and they’d do such a better job than me. The average speed would be better, their photos would be better, they’d be able to get up this pass without having to stop. I’m not built for this. My condition right now proves it. I’m not a cyclist. What the hang am I doing here?!

These negative thoughts continued with me all the way up to that small plateau. It was at this plateau however that the wind died all of a sudden. I was huffing and puffing, and my head was achy, but all of a sudden I was stoked. I was doing this. I was making it.

A door - Aqbaytal Pass, Tajikistan / ドアです(タジキスタン、ウクバイタル峠)

I saw this old door on the side of the road, and it reminded me of a true story:

There was an Englishman, Irishman, and Scotsman in the middle of the desert. Their jeep had broken down, and they realised that in order to survive in the heat, they had to start walking to the next oasis. In order to be able to walk fast, they decided that each one of them could take only one item from the jeep. The Englishman chose first. A bottle of water. “Why did you choose that?” the other two asked. “If I get thirsty I can drink the water.” the Englishman replied.

Next was the Irishman. He chose an umbrella. “Why did you choose that?” asked the other two. “Well, if I get hot, I can put the umbrella up for some shade.” he replied.

Lastly the Scotsman grabbed the jeep door and ripped it off its hinges and started carrying it. “Why did you choose that?” the other two cried. “Well, if I get hot, I can wind down the window.” he replied.

Looks like that Scotsman carried the door for a long way before giving up.

And did you ever hear the one about a New Zealander who rode his recumbent bicycle up a 4655m pass in Tajikistan and got a really, really sore headache?

Yeah, I laughed too.

The absurdity of it all...4665m pass on a recumbent - Aqbaytal Pass, Tajikistan / ドアです(タジキスタン、ウクバイタル峠)

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