January 11th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,highlights,Turkey
English Summary: Big big day of climbing today. 1,470m of vertical ascent, only to descend 1,100m at the end of the day in about 30mins to Tortum. Friendly dog with serious collar. All in all just a really feel good day despite the hard climbing.
今日ã¯ä»Šã¾ã§ä¸€ç•ªãã¤ã‹ã£ãŸï¼‘æ—¥ã§ã—ãŸã€‚1日(7時間)ã§åˆè¨ˆã§1ã€470mを上りã€ãã‚Œã§ã‚‚80kmè¿‘ãèµ°è¡ŒãŒã§ãã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ã‚„ã£ãŸ~!
オルツ町をã§ã¦ã€ã™ãã«æ°—温ãŒæ°·ç‚¹ä¸‹15土ã«ä¸‹ãŒã‚Šã¾ã—ãŸã€‚時間ãŒç«‹ã£ã¦ã‚‚ã€ï¼‘æ—¥ã®æœ€é«˜æ°—温ã¯ã‚ãšã‹æ°·ç‚¹ä¸‹7度ã§ã—ãŸã€‚
10kmèµ°ã£ã¦ã„ãªã„内ã«ã€çŠ¬ãŒã‚„ã£ã¦ãã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ã¾ãŸã‹~ã¨æ€ã„ãªãŒã‚‰ã€ã„ã¤ã‚‚æ¦å™¨ã«ä½¿ã£ã¦ã„るアルミã®ãƒ‘イプをã ã—ã¦ã€æ”»æ’ƒã‚’å¾…ã¡ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ã—ã‹ã—今回ã¯é•ã†ã€‚何ã¨çŠ¬ã¯é™ã‹ã«åƒ•ã®ãã°ã‚’èµ°ã£ã¦ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚ã‚„ã•ã—ã„ãªã€ã“ã„ã¤ã€‚
ã¡ã‚‡ã£ã¨ãƒªã‚¹ã‚¯ã¯ã‚ã‚Šã¾ã—ãŸãŒã€çŠ¬ã‚’呼んã§ã€è§¦ã£ã¦ã¿ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚本当ã«äººé¦´ã‚Œã§ã€ä½•ã‚‚ã—ã¾ã›ã‚“ã§ã—ãŸã€‚ãã—ã¦é¦–輪を見ã¦ãã ã•ã„。ã“ã®ã‚ˆã†ãªé¦–輪ã¯ã‚ˆãã¿ã¾ã™ã€‚飼ã„犬ãŒé‡Žè‰¯çŠ¬ã«é¦–ã«ã‹ã¾ã‚Œãªã„よã†ã«ã¤ã‘ã¦ã‚ã‚Šã¾ã™ã€‚
標 高2000mã¾ã§ä¸Šã‚‹é“ã¯æ€¥ã§ã¯ãªã‹ã£ãŸãŒã€åˆå¾Œ3時ã”ã‚ã«ç€ã„ãŸçœŸå‰£ãªå‚é“ã¯ãƒˆãƒ«ã‚³ã‚‰ã—ãã€éžå¸¸ã«æ€¥ã§ã—ãŸã€‚トルトムæ‘ã¾ã§ã¯ã¾ã 後30kmã®è·é›¢ã§ã€ 標高400mã»ã©ã‚’上らãªã„ã¨ã„ã‘ã¾ã›ã‚“ã§ã—ãŸã€‚絶対ã«æš—ããªã‚‰ãªã„ã†ã¡ã«ãƒˆãƒ«ãƒˆãƒ æ‘ã«ç€ã‹ãªã„ã¨æ€ã£ã¦ã€æ°—ãŒè½ã¡ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚å³ ã®é ‚上ã‚ãŸã‚Šã«ã‚ャンプã™ã‚‹ ã—ã‹ãªã„。
ã¨æ€ã£ãŸã‚‰åˆå¾Œ4時ã«é ‚上ã«ç€ãã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ã“ã“ã‹ã‚‰ã¯ä¸‹ã‚Šå‚ã ã‘ã !ã‚„ã£ã¦ã¿ã‚ˆã†!
1ã€400mを上るã«ã¯5時間以上ãŒã‹ã‹ã‚Šã¾ã—ãŸã€‚1ã€200mã‚’é™ã‚‹ã®ã«ã‚ãšã‹30分ã‹ã‹ã‚Šã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
トルトムæ‘ã«è¦‹äº‹ã«4時åŠã«ç€ãã¾ã—ãŸã€‚トルトムæ‘ã«ãƒ›ãƒ†ãƒ«ãŒãªãã¦ã€æ•™å¸«ä½å®…謙旅行者宿泊ã®æ–½è¨ã«æ³Šã¾ã£ã¦ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚一泊700円ã§ã™ã€‚
January 11th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories
For those of you who have been following this blog since the beginning (thank you so much for your patience as I trundle along!), you may recall the madness that ensued while I was cycling through Kyrgyzstan. Or should that be, pushing…
I have updated those fateful Kyrgyzstan posts with the corresponding pictures, so if you wish to revisit or experience for the first time (for those new to the site) the few days when I pushed, hauled, and carried the bike over unrideable terrain in Kyrgyzstan, take a look at the revamped Day 51, Day 52, Day 53, and Day 54 posts.
There were also quite a few other posts from Kyrgyzstan which did not include the corresponding photos. These have been updated and can be seen in the Kyrgyzstan Category of the blog.
Over and out.
(Click on this photo for a big version)
January 10th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
Mmmmmm. Downhill riding. I can’t remember the last time I did 70km before lunch. I dropped from an altitude of 2,200m to 1,000m, and then only had a 250m climb back up to 1,250m (with a few ups and downs in between of course).
It was cold again as I pulled out of Gole. A balmy -20 to be exact. It was only when I started dropping in altitude that I was able to see the surrounding landscape.
Thıs photo shows the beginning of the downhill from Gole to a small town called Asker. About 35kms of downhill in total, before climbing up through red dirt hills that look like miniature mountains…
One thing that I have really appreciated about Turkey so far is the abundance of running water at the roadside. There is often running drinking water every 20km or so. Certainly saves having to carry so much water at any one time.
I rolled into Oltu, a town of 21,200 inhabitants at 12:20pm. Great feeling to have done 75km before lunch. As much as I wanted to push on to make it a 100km day, I decided to stay the night here in Oltu. Rest while I’m feeling good, I figured…
Oltu unfortunately isn’t living up to the expectations that I have developed for Turkish people however. It is a busy town. Gone are the locals who take you under their wing, feed you tea till you overdose, and then find you a hotel. But I guess that is to be expected of a big town. Give me the backcountry towns any day…
Oh and I have found a cure for any lack of energy woes. OralGas. One puff a day keeps the doctor away!
And just one last thing – some food for thought about the copious amount of meat that New Zealanders consume: The Cow Public Enemy Number One. This article was linked to from the Bentrider Online website, a website I often visit for updates on the recumbent bicycle scene. In Japan I rarely ate beef due to the exorbitant price of it, but I know that it could be considered a staple food in New Zealand…
January 9th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
I didn’t sleep very well last night for some reason. My heart rate was higher than normal…
Remembering my friend Joe’s words about an increased heart rate, I decided to take today off, and head out into the cold again tomorrow. This cold climate is only supposed to last another 300 or so kilometers, so no need to hurry.
Tomorrow I head for Oltu Town, 60km away. The next day, to Tortum, 70km from Oltu. From there to the large city of Erzurum – one of the coldest cities in all of Turkey. The overnight temperature was forecast for -35 degrees celcius the other day…
January 8th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,highlights,Turkey
It’s all rather cold in this part of the world.
So I leave Ardahan at 10am, and as soon as I am on the road, my thermometer drops sharply to -10 degrees Celcius (14 degrees Fahrenheit). It stayed at this temperature for most of the climb up to the top of the pass that would see me drop into a mist-shroud minus 23 degrees Celcius (-10 degrees Fahrenheit) valley.
Just before the LCD froze (went all black)
I took my wristwatch off and attatched that to the bike. In 30 minutes is had dropped to -23 degrees celcius.
It is a fascinating world, this freezing environment. It was unearthly still. Quiet. Grass that dared emerge higher than the snow was coated in a thick layer of ice crystals. Dogs barked, but dared not leave the comfort of their homes, if not for fear of getting lost in the thick fog, certainly because of the cold.
However despite the cold (and frozen beard), I was warm inside. I could have enjoyed the ride more had I not had a headache for most of the day. I think it was due to dehydration. It is very dry here. I pushed on for the 45kms to Gole, a small town of 10,000 inhabitants.
I arrived at just before dark at 4:30pm. People turned and looked in astonishment at this frozen creature on a frozen bicycle. I pulled up outside a tea-house to ask directions, and was promptly pulled inside to thaw out in front of the ever present coal burner potbelly stove. As usual I was given copious amounts of hot tea, before being walked to the nearest hotel – a warm $7 a night for a single room. I had given up the thought of camping earlier in the day simply due to the sheer cold (if it was -23 in the daytime…).
January 7th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
English Summary: Dog attacks continued today on the outskirts of Ardahan where I am staying the night tonight. Bought a brush today to brush off any snow that gets on my boots. The snow melts, the water wets my boots, my boots freeze overnight, and I come close to getting frostbite on my toes in temperatures such as -16, as it was this morning as I rode.
ã¡ã‚‡ã£ ã¨å•é¡Œç™ºç”Ÿã§ã™ã€‚ã“ã®ã”ã‚ã€é“è·¯ã‹ã‚‰é›¢ã‚ŒãŸå¯ã‚‹ã¨ã“ã‚ã¾ã§è¡ŒããŸã‚ã«ã€æ™‚ã«è†ã¾ã§ã®æ·±ã•ã®é›ªã®ä¸ã«100m以上ã«æ©ã‹ãªã„ã¨è¡Œã‘ã¾ã›ã‚“。雪ãŒé´ã«ä»˜ã„ã¦ã— ã¾ã£ã¦ã€è§£ã‘ã¦ã€ãã®æ°´ã§ãƒ–ーツã®çš®ãŒæ¿¡ã‚Œã¦ã—ã¾ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚æ¿¡ã‚ŒãŸé´ã‚’一晩置ã„ãŸã‚‰ã€å®Œå…¨ã«å‡ã£ã¦ã—ã¾ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚ãã—ã¦ãã®å‡ã£ãŸé´ã‚’å±¥ãã¨è¶³æŒ‡ãŒå†·ãˆã¦ã—ã¾ ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚
普通ã¯ã€å†·ãŸã„足指ã¯ãã“ã¾ã§å¤§ããªå•é¡Œã§ã¯ã‚ã‚Šã¾ã›ã‚“ãŒã€ä»Šæœã®æ°—温ã€ãƒžã‚¤ãƒŠã‚¹16度ã®ä¸ã§è‡ªè»¢è»Šã‚’走らãªã„ã¨è¡Œã‘ãªã„ã“ã¨ã« ãªã£ãŸã‚‰ã€å¤§å¤‰ãªã“ã¨ã«ãªã‚‹å¯èƒ½æ€§ãŒç”Ÿã˜ã¦ãã¾ã™ã€‚極端ã«ã„ã†ã¨frost biteã«ãªã‚‹ã¨æŒ‡ã®åˆ‡æ–ãŒå¿…è¦ã«ãªã£ã¦ãã‚‹ã‚ã‘ã§ã™ã€‚ç¾å®Ÿã®å•é¡Œã§ã™ã€‚é˜²æ°´åŠ å·¥ã§é´ã®ãªã‹ã«æ°´ãŒæŸ“ã¿è¾¼ã¾ãªã„ã“ã¨ãŒã¨ã¦ã‚‚ã„ã„ã§ã™ãŒã€è¡¨é¢ã®çš®ãŒå‡ã£ã¦ ã—ã¾ã†ã“ã¨ãŒå•é¡Œã§ã™ã€‚
ãã®å¯¾ç–ã¨ã—ã¦ã€ãƒ–ラッシを買ã„ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚雪ãŒå°‘ã—ã§ã‚‚é´ã«ä»˜ã„ã¦ã—ã¾ã£ãŸã‚‰ã€ã™ãã«ã¯ã‚‰ãˆã¾ã™ã€‚ã¨ã«ã‹ãé´ãŒæ¿¡ã‚Œãªã„よã†ã«ã—ãªã„ã¨ã€‚
今日も犬ã®attackãŒç¶šã‘ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚戦争ã®ã‚ˆã†ã§ã™ã€‚ã²ã¨ã¤ã®ç¾¤ã‚’ã‚„ã£ã¨å¾Œã«ã§ããŸã‚‰ã€æ¬¡ã®ç¾¤ãŒã‚„ã£ã¦ãる。銃を買ã†ã‹ãƒ»ãƒ»ãƒ»
今日ã¯10kmã‚’èµ°ã£ã¦ã€ã‚¢ãƒ«ãƒ€ãƒãƒ³ç”ºã®ãƒ›ãƒ†ãƒ«ã«æ³Šã¾ã£ã¦ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚ã“ã®3日間ã§ç¾ã‚ŒãŸå•é¡Œï¼ˆé›ªã€å¯’ã•ã€çŠ¬ï¼‰ã®å¯¾ç–を考ãˆã‚‹ãŸã‚ã§ã™ã€‚
January 6th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
Today’s distance / 今日ã®è·é›¢ï¼š 56.78km
Riding time / 時間: 4h 22m
Average speed / å¹³å‡é€Ÿåº¦ï¼š 12.9km/h
Total distance to date / 今日ã¾ã§ã®ç©ç®—è·é›¢ï¼š 1546.9.0km (plus 4200km)
English Summary: Freaking dogs! I have not encountered such ferocious dogs anywhere that compare with the ones here in Turkey. They are massive, they sometimes run at full speed for over 300m to get to me, and they come in packs. Never have I been so afraid of being seriously injured in my life. For now I have detatched my flag pole to use as defense, and am going to purchase a big knife should things get sticky.
èµ·ããŸã‚‰ã€å¤–ã«10cmæ–°ã—ã„雪ãŒç©ã‚‚ã£ã¦ã„ã¦ã€éœ§ã§100må…ˆã—ã‹ã¿ãˆã¾ã›ã‚“ã§ã—ãŸã€‚åˆå‰7時ãªã®ã«ã€é›ªã‚’よã‘る作æ¥ãŒè¿‘ãã®é“è·¯ã«è¡Œã‚ã‚Œã¦ã„ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
昨日æ€ã£ãŸã¨ãŠã‚Šã€å³ ã®é ‚上ã¾ã§ã‚ã¨ã‚ãšã‹æ¨™é«˜200mã—ã‹ã‚ã‚Šã¾ã›ã‚“ã§ã—ãŸã€‚é ‚ä¸Šã«ç€ã„ã¦ã€ä¸‹ã‚Šå‚始ã¾ã£ãŸã‚‰ã»ã£ã¨ã—ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚下りé“もアイスãƒãƒ¼ãƒ³ãŒå¤šãã€ä¸¡è¶³ã‚’サãƒãƒ¼ãƒˆã¨ã—ã¦è·¯é¢ã«é™ã‚Šã¦é€²ã¿ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
ã— ã‹ã—ã€å‚é“ã®å–œã³ã¯ã™ã消ãˆã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ãªãœãªã‚‰ã€ãƒˆãƒ«ã‚³ã¯ä¸–界一å±ãªã„犬ãŒã„ã‚‹ã‹ã‚‰ã€‚今ã¾ã§ã®é“ã§çµŒé¨“ã—ãŸã“ã¨ãªã„ferociousãªçŠ¬ãŒç”ºã«å…¥ã£ãŸã‚‰æ¬¡ 々ã¨è¥²ã£ã¦ãã¾ã™ã€‚ã—ã‹ã‚‚ã€ä»Šã¾ã§ã®çŠ¬ã¨é•ã£ã¦ã€æ™‚ã«300m以上離れãŸã¨ã“ã‚ã‹ã‚‰å¿…æ»ã«èµ°ã£ã¦ãã¾ã™ã€‚ãã®èµ°ã‚Šæ–¹ãƒ»ãƒ»ãƒ»å®Œå…¨ã«åƒ•ã‚’殺ãã†ã¨æ€ã£ã¦ã„るよ ã†ãªèµ°ã‚Šæ–¹ã§ã™ã€‚æš´èµ°ã§ã™ã€‚
ãã—ã¦1匹ã§ã¯ãªãã¦ã€ãƒˆãƒ«ã‚³ã®çŠ¬ã¯ç¾¤ã§ã‚„ã£ã¦ãã¾ã™ã€‚今日僕ãŒã®ã¼ã‚Šå‚ã‚’ç™»ã£ã¦ã„る途ä¸ã«6匹ã®å¤§ããªçŠ¬ãŒ ã‚„ã£ã¦ãã¦ã€æ¯ã‚’示ã—ãªãŒã‚‰å¿…æ»ã«å ãˆã¦ã„ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚å‚é“ãªã®ã§ã€è‡ªè»¢è»Šã®ã‚¹ãƒ”ードã§ã¯é€ƒã’ã‚‹ã“ã¨ãŒã§ããªã„。ヘルメットを外ã—ã¦çŠ¬é”ã«swing atã™ã‚‹ã€‚1回1匹ã«å£ã«å¼·ãã‚ãŸã‚Šã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ãã‚Œã§ã‚‚犬ãŒå ãˆã¤ã¥ã‘る。
ã‚る程度町ã‹ã‚‰é›¢ã‚ŒãŸã‚‰çŠ¬ãŒå¸°ã‚‹ã‚“ã§ã™ã‘ã©ã€ãã®3分戦ã„ã¯ãƒ»ãƒ»ãƒ»ã“ã®ä¸–ã«ã¯ãã‚Œã»ã©æ€–ã„ã“ã¨ã¯ãªã„。ã—ã‹ã‚‚アイスãƒãƒ¼ãƒ³ã§ã™ã‚ˆã€‚スリップã—ã¦è‡ªè»¢è»Šã‚«ã‚‰è»¢ã‚“ã らã©ã†ã™ã‚‹ï¼Ÿ
ãã—ã¦ã‚ã‚Šãˆãªã„ã®ã¯çŠ¬ã®é£¼ã„主ã§ã™ã€‚何回もãã®å®¶ã®çŠ¬ãŒåƒ•ã‚’襲ã£ã¦ãã¦ã„ã‚‹ã®ã«ã€ãã®å®¶ã®äººã¯ä½•ã‚‚ã—ã¾ã›ã‚“。ãŸã é™ã‹ã«ã¿ã¦ã„ã‚‹ã ã‘ã§ã™ã€‚ä¿¡ã˜ã‚‰ã‚Œãªã„。腹ãŒç«‹ã¤ã€‚ニュージーランドã‹æ—¥æœ¬ã ã£ãŸã‚‰ã€ãã®äººã¯é€®æ•ã•ã‚Œã‚‹ã€‚
対ç–ã¨ã—ã¦ã€ä»Šã¾ã§ã«ãƒ‹ãƒ¥ãƒ¼ã‚¸ãƒ¼ãƒ©ãƒ³ãƒ‰ã®å›½æ——を付ã‘ã¦ã„ãŸã‚¢ãƒ«ãƒŸãƒ‘イプを外ã—ã¦ãれをæ¦å™¨ã¨ã—ã¦ä½¿ã£ã¦ã„ã¾ã™ã€‚今ã®ã¨ã“ã‚ã¯åŠ¹æžœçš„ã®ã‚ˆã†ã§ã™ã€‚怖ããªããªã£ã¦ããŸã‚ã‘ã§ã¯ã‚ã‚Šã¾ã›ã‚“ãŒã€‚
今日ã®å®¿ã¯äººã®ãªã„å°å±‹ã§ã™ã€‚風ãŒå…¥ã‚‹ã‘ã©ã€å¤–ã«ãƒ†ãƒ³ãƒˆã‚’張るã®ã«é›ªãŒæ·±ã™ãŽã‚‹ã‹ã‚‰ã—ょã†ãŒãªã„。
January 5th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
Today’s distance / 今日ã®è·é›¢ï¼š 15.98km
Riding time / 時間: 2h 56m
Average speed / å¹³å‡é€Ÿåº¦ï¼š 5.4km/h
Total distance to date / 今日ã¾ã§ã®ç©ç®—è·é›¢ï¼š 1490.0km (plus 4200km)
English Summary: Battered by the strongest head and side winds I have experienced, I took shelter from the flying ice in old stone farming huts for the afternoon and following night.
æš–ã‹ã„ãƒã‚½ãƒ•ç”ºã¨ã‚»ãƒ«ã‚¸ãƒ¥ãƒƒã‚¯ã•ã‚“ã®ç„¡æ–™ãƒ¬ã‚¹ãƒˆãƒ©ãƒ³ã‚’後ã«ã—ã€æ¬¡ã®3時間近ãã¯å¿…æ»ã«åŒ—風ã¨æˆ¦ã„ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚今ã¾ã§çµŒé¨“ã—ãŸã“ã¨ãªã„å¼·ã•ã§ã€ã‚¢ã‚¤ã‚¹ãƒãƒ¼ãƒ³ã®é“è·¯ã«å°‘ãªãã¨ã‚‚2回地é¢ã«ãƒã‚¿ãƒ³ã¨å€’ã•ã‚Œã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
次々ã¨è»ŠãŒé€šã‚Šã‹ã‹ã£ã¦ã€å‰ã«æ¢ã¾ã£ã¦ã€åƒ•ã‚’進ã¾ãªã„よã†ã«èª¬å¾—ã—よã†ã¨ã—ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚ã—ã‹ã—ã€è»ŠãŒå³ を通れるんã ã£ãŸã‚‰ã€åƒ•ã‚‚ã§ãã‚‹ï¼ã¨åƒ•ãŒæ€ã£ã¦ã€5.4km/hã¨ã„ã†ã‚ã‚Šãˆãªã„é…ã•ã§é€²ã¿ã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
上ã¾ã§å¾ŒåŠéƒ¨ãらã„ã®ã¨ã“ã‚ã§ã‚»ãƒ«ã‚¸ãƒ¥ãƒƒã‚¯ã•ã‚“ã®ãŠçˆ¶ã•ã‚“ãŒ4区ã§ç¾ã‚Œã¾ã—ãŸã€‚
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January 4th, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
A day spent lazing in the internet cafe here in Posof. Great folks here at the internet cafe only charged me half price. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again – ah the joy of cycling in off beat places.
So tomorrow it is off towards Ardahan. From there towards Ezurum via Gori. Should take about a week or so. Icy roads and more crazy steep Turkish roads are on the menu. The weather forecast by the way was for -22 overnight for Ezurum. It gonna be chilly, matey.
This is also goodbye to Seljuk, owner of Vatan Restaurant here in Posof. Great guy. Make sure you stop by if you’re in the area.
January 3rd, 2007 | categorizilation: all categories,Turkey
OK, so the pass linking Akhaltsikhe and Batuumi was indeed closed, so the only option was to cross into Turkey via the much less used Vale Town border 15km south west of Akhaltsikhe. This leads me into fairly snowy and high altitude mountains in the far east of Turkey, but apparently there is less snow in this part of Turkey than there is in Georgia…hard to believe since it’s all very close to each other, but I guess I had no other choice.
So I now find myself in Posof, a small town of 2,200 people, and a town that has a restaurant owned by Seljuk Demirci. I mention this restaurant because he does not charge foriegn tourists for their meals. He absolutely loves them, and I guess since he has only had five or six visit his restaurant in the last two or three years, he can afford the hospitality. Ah the joys of visiting small towns.
That rocket-looking thing in the middle of the picture is a minaret. It has loud speakers at the top that blast out the call to prayer at least at 5:30am. If not for the sheer middle eastern muslim islamic beauty of the melodic call, it would be all very annoying. But there is something about the “Allah akbar” call that gives me shivers down my spine when I hear it.