Azerbaijan


Jolly cold this morning. A mild -9 degrees celcius. Great weather for camping.The last few kms to the Azerbaijan border were fairly straight forward, as was getting out of Azerbaijan. Georgia impresses me with it’s zero tollerance to corruption in the public sector. They have special police at the border […]

Day 150 – Sweet Georgia Brown


Azerbaijan has a ferral dog issue. In no other country have I been kept awake in the middle of nowhere at night in my tent by howling and scrapping dogs. Today took me through hibernating vineyards, and in one particular town I got the biggest crowd of spectators yet when […]

Day 149 – Ganja City to past Qazax Town




Despite the cardboard window of my hotel room at the decrepid will-fall-down-at-any-moment hotel, I did get a good sleep, and managed also to dry out my tent after yesterday’s muddy fiasco. I had just gotten money out of the ATM and was about to leave on my bike when a […]

Day 147 – Detained in Yevlax


English Summary: It says on the Baku Bicycle Club website that cycling off road in Azerbaijan becomes impossible after rain. Now I know why. This Azerbaijan mud is straight out of Sticky Mud Hell. The road to my sleeping spot last night became unrideable by morning. Big trucks sprayed mud […]

Day 146 – From Kurdemir to Yevlax (English Summary)




Cold and grey day again today as I rode the flat lands of Azerbaijan. This road (the A343) has some revamped sections, but is mostly narrow and in bad condition, albiet sealed. Add to that very heavy traffic including many many old dump trucks, and you have a very dangerous […]

Day 144 – Qiziburun to Sigiri


English Summary: A cold, flat day of riding. Rode past the BP Sanqachal Oil Terminal – the beginning of the BTC oil and gas pipelines. Azerbaijan has the worst drivers I have encountered so far. Crazy overtaking manouvers, and general ignoring of road rules and road markings. 幸せです。ウズベキスタンと同じように、平らな道路が一日続きました。暖かくはありませんが。日中は5度以上あがりませんでした。休憩をとるときにダウンジャケットは必着用でした。 バクー自転車クラブの皆さんのほとんどが働くBP石油ターミナルは今日のルートにありました。BPは世界位置大きな石油会社で、カスピ海の石油可能性を現在集中的に開発しているそうです。BPが最近できたカスピ海の油田掘削施設は、現在カスピ海に働いている全部の他社油田掘削施設よりも石油油出能力が大きいらしいです。 というか、この辺には小さな油田掘削施設が非常に多いです。個人が石油を生産しているわけです。町の中。環境保護という理念をまったく知らないようで、周りの土地が黒い油に漬かっているところが多い。以下のところは国連の補助金で徐々に回復されている話をBPのスタッフの一人に聞きました。 […]

Day 143 – Baku to Qiziburun (English Summary)


First I must extend my thanks to Patty and Preston from the Baku Bicycle Club for the few days I have shamelessly indulged in their wonderful generosity and hospitality. Thank you so much for putting up with me oops, I mean putting me up. It is people like you that make a […]

Day 142 – Big thanks to Baku Bicycle Club



Another ride with the Baku Bicycle Club today. This time it was all on road on a recently sealed road up into the hills 50km north of Baku. The road passes some amazing rock formations – dubbed the ‘candy case’ mountains for their bright pink and white stripes. Today was my […]

Day 141 – Candy cane mountains with the BBC


Achim, a regular visitor and comment-poster on this site, has been extremely pro-active on my behalf, and a while ago contacted the Baku Bicycle Club and let them know that I was going to be travelling through the area. Andy Buckworth from the club kindly contacted me, and to cut a […]

Day 140 – Riding with the Baku Bicycle Club


I got arrested in Baku today for taking the follow two photos: No great big deal, but after taking the photos, a nearby police officer waved me over and explained that I was not allowed to take photos where we were. It turns out that behind me about 600m away […]

Day 139 – Excitement in Baku



6th December English Summary: Ferry ride was smooth, slept like a log during the night. Got into Baku at 4pm, checked into a US$10 dorm room at the Azer Hotel – very clean. Baku has a European/Middle East, oil money greased feel about it. Lots of flash cars. I am […]

Day 137 – Azerbaijan you jem! (English Summary)


5th December On the train to Turkmenbasi, Turkmenistan / トルクメンバシ行きの列車にて(トルクメニスタン)  The Caspian Sea is a deep aqua blue, at least here in Turkmenbasi. Turkmenbasi itself feels like the end of the world. Old Soviet apartments with small wooden framed windows. None seem to have been constructed as if there was […]

Day 136 – Turkmenbasi and the Caspian Sea